When buying a performance car it is vital to get it right because you’ll be making a very significant investment. We all know horror stories about getting it wrong by buying a lemon and this is far more serious when you’re buying a performance car because of the level of investment you’re making. Here we explore the key checklist you should follow in buying your performance car.
Let me guess – if you're reading this, we'll bet you'd like to know how to make your car accelerate faster? How about handling and gripping the road a little better? Or maybe just braking more efficiently? Yeah - we thought that might get your attention.
Just for you, we’ve compiled a list of the top eight ways to boost your car’s performance, sourced directly from industry experts around Australia.
Do you have a suspicion that you could get more out of your car? If you're keen to boost its performance, but don't know how to make it happen, here are some tips to get you started — straight from the mouths of successful car owners.
If you like a car that makes every drive feel like an adventure, you can't go past a performance vehicle. However, if you own a performance vehicle it's important to watch your car costs as they can easily become overly expensive if you don't take care.
Here are seven tips to make sure your performance vehicle doesn't end up costing you big bucks.
Many of us have seen and heard a Dyno power run. The power runs are part of tuning but a lot has to happen to get to the power runs. Large numbers of vehicles are presented for Dyno tuning with faults. Many of these faults may not even be noticeable during normal driving. By design the dyno places high loads often at high speeds on the vehicle. This and the data logging capabilities reveal unknown faults that will prevent tuning from being performed and need to be rectified. The issues may not necessarily be engine related either. We are going to run over some of the common issues we see during our dyno precheck or are discovered during the dyno tune. We are going to focus on 3 things, Fuel system, Ignition system and Engine.
A narrowband O2 (Oxygen) sensor only reads either rich or lean of Stoichiometric. Stoich is the ration to completely combust the fuel. So a narrowband will only read rich or lean. It does not tell you how far away you are from Stoich.
A wideband O2 is designed to read a board range of air fuel ratios. Some widebands will read from 10:1 up to 20:1. Knowing how far we are away from Stoich we are able to calibrate an engine under all conditions. Especially the areas of full power which are critical to performance and longevity.
Top feed fuel injectors are by far the most common, engines like the 4G63 use top feed injectors. Some of our favourite performance engines like early SR20, 3SGTE, 1JZGTE, RB25DET and EJ20 all come standard with side feed injectors.
So what is the difference?
Side feed injectors:
For side feed injectors the fuel enters through slots machined into the sides of the injector. The fuel rail is combined into the inlet manifold or cylinder head.
Top feed injectors:
As the name suggest fuel feeds into the injector from the top.
Stock cars are using plastic for just about everything. Not us. Plastic has it place, luckily we have ways to replace that plastic with strong and durable parts. Just look at the gear linkages as an example. They look trick also. Just ask us PH 31235373