Your clutch lining material will be Organic, Ceramic, Kevlar or Feramalloy.
 
 
Twin and Single Clutch
 
 
Organic is the choice of most OEMs. Organic offers durability, smooth engagement and are gentle on matting surfaces. The downside is they do not like heat and require a fairly high clamping force to maintain grip as the co-efficient of friction is only around 0.32. Organic friction discs will almost always be a full face discs with the organic material made from phenolic resins, metallic powder or metal oxides and moulded or woven in construction.
The heavy duty options will have more metallic material in the mixture and also have a pressure plate of higher clamping value.
 
Organic clutch material
 

Coilovers vs springs and struts/shocks

One of the common ways to increase suspension performance and looks is by lowering your vehicle. Lowered vehicles look more aggressive and benefit from improved handling. There are different ways to achieve this, each with their own benefits and characteristics. So let’s have a look at the difference between Coilovers, replacement springs and struts or shocks. 
If you are not familiar with the term coilover it is short for coil spring over strut. Coilovers look vaguely similar to the stock suspension spring and strut setup.  A performance orientated spring and strut replacement look exactly the same as factory suspension.  While lowering springs and coilovers will both serve to make your car lower, they achieve this in different ways and provide noticeably distinct handling characteristics. With Coilovers offering additional benefits.
 
Some drivers are unsure on the best option to go with. Some want their car to just sit lower, while others want the ability to adjust the ride height and real enthusiasts will require the flexibility of fully adjustable coilovers with rebound and compression adjustments in addition to ride height and camber plates.
 
 coilover and strut

If you want to get the best out of your car then there are some easy modifications that you can make to increase the power that you get from it. Here we explore 7 simple things you can do today to maximise the performance of your car.

When buying a performance car it is vital to get it right because you’ll be making a very significant investment. We all know horror stories about getting it wrong by buying a lemon and this is far more serious when you’re buying a performance car because of the level of investment you’re making. Here we explore the key checklist you should follow in buying your performance car.

Let me guess – if you're reading this, we'll bet you'd like to know how to make your car accelerate faster? How about handling and gripping the road a little better? Or maybe just braking more efficiently? Yeah - we thought that might get your attention.

Just for you, we’ve compiled a list of the top eight ways to boost your car’s performance, sourced directly from industry experts around Australia.

Do you have a suspicion that you could get more out of your car? If you're keen to boost its performance, but don't know how to make it happen, here are some tips to get you started — straight from the mouths of successful car owners. 

If you like a car that makes every drive feel like an adventure, you can't go past a performance vehicle. However, if you own a performance vehicle it's important to watch your car costs as they can easily become overly expensive if you don't take care.

Here are seven tips to make sure your performance vehicle doesn't end up costing you big bucks.

Many of us have seen and heard a Dyno power run. The power runs are part of tuning but a lot has to happen to get to the power runs. Large numbers of vehicles are presented for Dyno tuning with faults. Many of these faults may not even be noticeable during normal driving. By design the dyno places high loads often at high speeds on the vehicle. This and the data logging capabilities reveal unknown faults that will prevent tuning from being performed and need to be rectified. The issues may not necessarily be engine related either. We are going to run over some of the common issues we see during our dyno precheck or are discovered during the dyno tune. We are going to focus on 3 things, Fuel system, Ignition system and Engine.

Let’s start by explaining the differences between the parts.
OEM, Original equipment manufacturer part is a part made by the manufacture or made for them to their specification but an external company. A genuine part is a part supplied by the vehicle manufacturer in their packaging. Aftermarket parts are parts produced by any other company. Often they are reverse engineered to be a very close to the original specification. Many options are available which can vary wildly in price and quality. 
 
 
Toyota genuine Ignition CoilCopy Ignition Coil
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
A number of vehicle parts can be purchased directly from the OEM. The will be supplied in plain packaging and are exactly the same specification as the genuine part. Often these parts are better priced than a genuine part.
Genuine parts are available directly from the manufacturer and in some cases as a parallel import.
 
Specialized aftermarket suppliers are able to produce more durable parts than OEM, others just produce parts designed for direct replacement. 
When vehicle modifications are made often the best parts to use are the upgraded specialist’s parts. A company like this will reverse engineer the part and work out any weakness that may be present.  Manufacturers will design taking into account cost, noise, durability and performance. Aftermarket design may be aimed directly at performance and not be as concerned with noise or vibration.  A good example of this would be an aftermarket clutch. It will be able to handle more power than an OEM. As a side effect is it may vibrate or be noisier than OEM. Many other parts like ignition coils, Suspension arms, coil overs, brake pads and rotors all fit this category.
 
Carbon multi plate clutch
 
Items that are really cheap would have be designed for price without other aspects like durability considered.
In the aftermarket you have many options to choose from. If you are not familiar with the products you could get a low quality part just with clever advertising, instead of a well-engineered product worthy of the dollars spent.
 
 
Now when I talk EFI, I am talking about full engine management. Let’s first touch on a little history.
Before fuel injection we had carbie and points. Firstly the points or Kettering system was replaced with electronic ignition.
This gave us a better spark to ignite the mixture but still had mechanical and vacuum timing advance. 
 
Next was throttle body or single point fuel injection which replaced the carbie with a fuel injector squirting fuel into a standard wet manifold. 
On wet and dry manifolds, a wet manifold is one that contains a mix of fuel and air while a dry manifold only contains air. Carbie and throttle body type injectors are considered to be wet while port and direct injection is dry.
 
I know mechanical fuel injection also exists, for the purpose of this discussion lets ignore it.
 
Now that we had a computer a few sensors for the throttle body injection it only was logical to add a little more computer power and have full engine management which controlled fuel and spark. Considering the added benefits of complete engine management this is the type of conversation we will discuss.
 
Intake Manifold
 
Originally I was going to write this article on reading spark plugs. I will touch on spark plug reading, but in reality it can be time consuming on modern engines to remove spark plugs. Often the spark plugs will only be inspected in the event of an issue or during maintenance. With the use of wide band O2 sensors or pyrometers and knock sensors, reading the spark plugs for tuning is possibly not necessary for many applications.
To read spark plugs accurately you will need to replace them every time a reading is to be taken.
 
Spark plug reading with get coverage along with the differnet types and their constraction.
 
 
Spark
 

 
 A boost controller does exactly that, controls your boost level. How, by controlling the amount of manifold pressure getting to the turbo wastegate.
If you wish to increase your boost pressure (typically 7psi), the boost controller must modify the pressure
signal to the wastegate actuator.
 
There are two types of boost controllers; mechanical and electronic. 
Mechanical (gated) boost controllers  are easy to fit, simple in operation and require little maintenance.
 
Electronic boost controllers are a far more sophisticated, offering a host of boost settings mapped against different triggers. Electronic boost controllers require 
special fittment and programming. They do give you the ultimate control over the boost curve with  features designed for one thing, that one thing we all want, performance.
 
This programmable control means that you can increase the performance and response from your engine without raising the boost pressure. Electronic Boost controllers
 also allow the user to control 3 different aspects of the boost curve; maximium boost pressure (set point), spool up rate of the turbocharger (gate pressure) 
and reaction time of the controller (sensitivity).
 
 

A narrowband O2 (Oxygen) sensor only reads either rich or lean of Stoichiometric. Stoich is the ration to completely combust the fuel. So a narrowband will only read rich or lean. It does not tell you how far away you are from Stoich.

A wideband O2 is designed to read a board range of air fuel ratios. Some widebands will read from 10:1 up to 20:1. Knowing how far we are away from Stoich we are able to calibrate an engine under all conditions. Especially the areas of full power which are critical to performance and longevity.

Narrowband     Wideband Haltech

Top feed fuel injectors are by far the most common, engines like the 4G63 use top feed injectors. Some of our favourite performance engines like early SR20, 3SGTE, 1JZGTE, RB25DET and EJ20 all come standard with side feed injectors.

So what is the difference?

Differance

Side feed injectors:

For side feed injectors the fuel enters through slots machined into the sides of the injector. The fuel rail is combined into the inlet manifold or cylinder head.

Top feed injectors:

As the name suggest fuel feeds into the injector from the top


 

Why change to top feed?

Side feed injectors are size limited. 1000cc is about the largest size available.

The flow rate of the integral fuel rail is limited.

Side feed are expensive compared to top feed.

Most performance inlet manifolds are made to suit top feed.

 Top Feed Injector

Top feed advantages

Cost advantage when changing to larger injectors.

Fuel pressure is generally more stable in a top feed fuel rail.

Top feed fuel rails usually flow more.

Top feed is simply more common.

Can use very large injectors 2000cc 

 

Top feed disadvantages

A conversation kit is required. Which may also require changing plug connectors.

Fuel flow does not cool top feed like it does on side feed.

 Top Feed Conversion

Side feed advanatages

Some cooling effect offered by the fuel surrounding them.

 Side Feed Injector

Side feed disadvantages

Cost.

Limited range.

Restricted by size.

More prone to leaks.

Fuel Injector

Stock cars are using plastic for just about everything. Not us. Plastic has it place, luckily we have ways to replace that plastic with strong and durable parts. Just look at the gear linkages as an example. They look trick also.  Just ask us PH 31235373

Gear-LinkageRace auto repairing part

car modificationsCar Gear Linkage

AutoWorks... the key to your vehicle's performance